As with many of the stands and benches in my shop, I have designed and built a multi-purpose roller stand that is small and has adjustable features as well as the ability to change its purpose with a change of the main head of the stand. With the stand in roller mode and not extended it measure approx. 34” high and the roller is a 12” metal supported unit. I can adjust the height in 2”increments as needed
The main body of the stand is made from some 2 by pine stock and 1/2” thick – 12” wide MDF panels. The head section of the roller stand is made from some more 2 by pine stock and a 12” wide metal roller.
The main body of the stand has two end gables approx. 28” in length; each gable consists of a piece of 2 by pine stock for the stile and a piece of the same 2 by material, 14” in length, that acts as the foot rail/foot pad. The foot rail is lapped joined into the bottom of the side gable stile and is attached with glue and screws. I added small pieces of pine to each end of the foot rail, to give the unit some height and balance when the stand is placed on the floor.
Before I assembled the main body of the stand, I laid both gables on top of each other laid out and drilled a 3/4” hole through both gables at the same time, approx. 2” from the top of the gable piece and centered on the gable width. This hole will be used to pass a 3/4” wooden dowel stop pin assembly through as part of the raising and lowering mechanism of the stand.
To assemble the main body of the stand, I placed both gable assemblies on my work bench and then attached the MDF panels to the ends of the gables, aligning the wood gables with the edge of the MDF panel and used 1 1/2” wood screws, drilling and countersink the screws as required, to hold the panels to the gables.
To make the roller head section, I first measured the inside distances between the MDF panels to determine the width of my stiles and rails for the assembly and the distance between the inside end gables of the main assembly of the stand,to determine the width of the head assembly itself. I deducted about an 1/8” from each of the above measurements to allow for easy raising and lowering of the head assembly within the base assembly.
I cut two 18” stiles that would become the sides of the section and trimmed them to width per the measurement from above. I found that 18” was long enough to provide me with the ability of raising the head,while still leaving me with a portion of the head stock within the body of the stand that added stability when the head section was raised.
I laid the two stiles on top of each other, measured the thickness together. I deducted the combined thickness of stiles from the width between the main body gables and deducted an additional 1/8” to get me the length of the rails for the head assembly. I then cut two rails from the 2 by pine using the determined rail length.
To give the head assembly the raising and lowering capability, I first laid one head assembly stile into its lowered position in the main body between the MDF panels and traced the hole I had drilled into the gable of the main body onto the head section stile. I determined the mid point of the traced hole then laid out for 4 additional holes in the stile, measuring 2” between the centers. I laid both head assembly stiles on top of each other, and using my drill press, I drilled a 3/4” hole in each of the layout positions.
At this point I assembled the head section by clamping one rail between the stiles, at the bottom end of the stile that had no holes drilled in it, and drilling and countersinking two 3” deck screws through the each stile into each rail. I located and clamped the second rail about a 1/2” below the bottom hole I had drilled in each stile and attached the rail to the stiles as I had done with the other rail.
I then mounted the head section top, centering it on the rail and stile assembly above, using 3” deck screws. I attached my roller to the top using 1 1/2” wood screws and flat washers.
To allow for the control raising and lowering of the unit I made two stop pin assembles from 3/4” doweling, 5” long, and 3/4” Baltic Birch plywood 1 1/2” wide and 4” long. I centered and drilled a 3/4” hole 1/4” deep into the Birch plywood using a 3/4” Forstner bit. I then glued and screwed the dowel pin in place into the countersunk hole on the plywood base. To ease the edges on the plywood stop, I used my block plane to chamfer a 45 degree edge around the top of the stop pin assembly.
To raise and lower the unit head stock, you pull the stop pins out, align the holes in the head assembly with the holes in the gable ends of the main body and insert the stop pins. Works good and will do the trick. Not much expense but some skill development to build.
Next, I am going to make a top which can be raised and lowered using the same method as the roller head section. I am going to use the top as part of a finishing table and also as an assembly table for small projects and tasks.
Always new ideas.
See you in the Workshop!!